(CNN) 鈥 As a professional big wave surfer, charging down mountains of water that reach the size of an apartment block, Garrett McNamara doesn鈥檛 scare easily.
Perhaps best known for taking on huge walls of water in his television docuseries, 鈥100 Foot Wave,鈥 the 57-year-old Hawaiian earned himself a world record in 2011 鈥 which has 鈥 for surfing the biggest wave in the world, a 78-foot (23.8 meters) monster in .
But despite his fearlessness and aptitude for risk, the surfer isn鈥檛 immune to the peaks and troughs of life.
In 2016, the veteran surfer suffered a wipeout at Mavericks, a famous big wave surf break off the coast south of San Francisco, shattering his shoulder into 鈥10 pieces.鈥
What followed was months of physical pain and 鈥渢he most challenging six months ever in my life,鈥 he said to .
鈥淚t was a very dark, dark time of our life, our relationship and working through that,鈥 his wife Nicole told CNN, explaining that the accident 鈥渂egan a very long journey of depression.鈥
鈥淎t that time, Garrett I feel was really actually going and chasing these waves for the wrong reason 鈥 (for) most of our relationship, he was doing it for the right reasons,鈥 she added.
鈥淗e was trying to prove himself to the wrong people for the wrong reasons, and it was one of the first times I didn鈥檛 actually travel with him.鈥
While she was at home and caring for their young son in 2016, she received a brief message informing her that her husband had been injured.
The experience of the injury, McNamara told CNN, 鈥渢otally changed me,鈥 and almost 10 years later, he said his perspective on life has transformed.
鈥淚鈥檝e been really doing well, better than I鈥檝e ever done on land, and I have released the monkey. The monkey is not on my back. I don鈥檛 have to ride every swell everywhere in the world,鈥 he said.
鈥淚鈥檓 really looking at being more present, being with the family, doing things with purpose and intention, and taking my time, slowing down 鈥 all things that aren鈥檛 normal for me.鈥
A sport that involves the whole family
The life of a big wave surfer is one that few could imagine, involving copious amounts of travel, change and risk, and McNamara said, for the most part: 鈥淲e fly by the seat of our pants and I just go and do whatever this amazing woman shares with me.鈥
Nicole added, 鈥淲e鈥檙e polar opposites, but I think that鈥檚 what makes it work.鈥
鈥淚鈥檓 the grounding force that he doesn鈥檛 have, and he鈥檚 this excitement and adventure and freedom that I definitely don鈥檛 have but crave it,鈥 she explained.
Now entering its third season, 鈥100 Foot Wave鈥 explores the challenges of the sport for a crew of surfers 鈥 and their families 鈥 as they continue to push boundaries. This involves dealing with the death of a tow surfer, brain injury and the impacts of these tragedies on a community.
Away from filming, in their day to day life, the couple still navigates regular situations like raising their children, who have inherited their parents鈥 love for the ocean, though McNamara explained to CNN, 鈥淚鈥檓 not real excited for anybody to follow in my footsteps. I am an open book when it comes to all the challenges I faced.鈥
鈥淚f (my son) Barrel wants to follow in my footsteps, I will just make sure he trains harder than anybody and is ready for what he鈥檚 getting himself into,鈥 the veteran surfer added.
As for what鈥檚 next in life, if and when 鈥100 Foot Wave鈥 ends, McNamara says he will always have an affinity with the ocean.
鈥淚 won鈥檛 ride horses, I won鈥檛 jump out of airplanes 鈥 I鈥檓 very comfortable in the ocean and I鈥檝e always focused on riding big waves.
鈥淚 feel like I鈥檒l be riding big waves 鈥榯il the end, but maybe vicariously through people that I鈥檓 helping and mentoring and driving the jet ski 鈥 I鈥檒l be able to drive the jet ski forever.鈥
The-CNN-Wire
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